The Turkish Side Dish that Summer Heat Can't Spoil

Kinoa Kısır - Spiced Quinoa (or Bulgur) Salad

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Every year, my husband or I propose a summertime picnic to one another.

The concept is lovely, and it seems easy enough. We’d just pack ourselves a lunch and walk a few blocks to the nearby park. Sunglasses on, a book in tow, we’d drape our picnic blanket over a patch of green grass and dine al fresco.

But then, we take a step outside. It’s 90 F (that’s 32 C) with 80% humidity. I’ve sweated through my shirt before even laying down the blanket, and now I’m debating whether to reapply sunscreen before I start eating lunch (I never actually do).

Picnics seem more romantic than they actually are.

Aside from the personal discomfort of being hot and sweaty, what about the food? Photos of picnics often show a beautiful array of dishes that seem to hold up perfectly well in the the sticky heat of summer. But of course, that’s just professional photography, isn’t it?

I hate a warm slice of watermelon, or a soggy sandwich, but my biggest peeve is about the side dishes. Why are mayo-slicked pasta and potato salads thought of as good side dishes in hot weather?

If you’re well prepared with a cooler to keep your dishes chilled, they might fare fine. But like… who does that? (Actually, I know who—my mom. She is always prepared with a treasure-chest-sized cooler full of ice packs in the trunk of her car. Living in South Florida will do that to you.)

For the majority of us, though, creamy pasta and potato salads heat up fast. What starts as a cool, tangy side dish turns into a bowl of lukewarm, greasy mayo that is likely going to meet its fate in the trash within an hour or two.

So I’ve wondered a long time about what a good alternative could be. Then last year, I found what might be the answer.

We were in Istanbul at our friends’ place. They hosted a mangal gecesi, a BBQ night, for us and our family who were visiting on vacation.

The hosting couple was barely acquainted with the majority of my family, but they welcomed everyone into their home for an evening of warm conversation, homecooked food, and a beautiful view of the Bosphorous.

There were several dishes set out, but one was getting a bit more attention than the rest.

“Can you pass the couscous?” I asked.

And my husband replied, “Oh, that’s kısır. It’s bulgur.”

I was a little surprised because I don’t always love bulgur dishes, which are quite popular in Turkey, but this one was especially delicious. After I had two (ok, maybe three) servings, I resolved to learn how to make it back home in the US.

The kısır in the middle!

Kısır is made with fine bulgur that’s coated in a bit of sautéed tomato and pepper paste, studded with onions, chopped tomatoes, cucumbers and herbs, and brightened by a bit of lemon and pomegranate molasses. It’s meant to be eaten at room temperature. Yes, even slightly warmed up by the sweltering sun is fine.

Because bulgur is difficult to find in the US, I made this version with white quinoa. When cooked with a bit less water than package instructions, quinoa has a similar blank-canvas quality to bulgur. This idea is not my own— quinoa (kinoa) kısır is a modern interpretation that is eaten in Turkey.

It’s packed with flavor and texture. It’s filling and satisfying without being heavy, and it makes for fantastic picnic food (and airplane food, too)!

Lately we’ve eaten kısır with roasted chicken thighs and vegetables. To keep it plant-based, cooked chickpeas could be mixed in, too.

The ingredient list is a bit long, but keep in mind that you don’t have to use everything. There are various styles of kısır around Turkey—some more spicy, some more simple—so there’s flexibility in how to prepare it.

When we do go on our summer picnic this year, I will have kısır in hand. My husband and I will probably end up feeding it to each other while we giggle about cute dogs and “unique” New Yorkers that pass by. It will be hot and uncomfortable, but also delicious and a bit romantic. It’ll be worth it.

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Kinoa Kısır

Servings: 4-6

Ingredients

For the quinoa

• 1 cup quinoa (168 grams)

• 1.5 cups water (360 ml)

• 1/2 teaspoon salt

For cooked onions

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 small yellow onion, diced (~150 grams)

• 2 medium cloves garlic, minced

• 2 tablespoons red pepper paste (30 g) (See Note 1)

• 2 tablespoons tomato paste (30 g)

• 1/4 teaspoon black pepper

• 1/2 teaspoon cumin

For the spices and fresh add-ins (See Note 2)

• 1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses

• 1/2 tablespoon lemon juice

• 1/2 teaspoon salt, or more to taste

• Optional: ~1/2 teaspoon Aleppo pepper flakes

• Optional: ~1/2 teaspoon sumac

• 2 green onions, chopped (~1/4 cup)

• 3 sprigs fresh mint, leaves only chopped (~1/4 cup)

• 1/2 bunch parsley, leaves only (~1/2 cup)

• 1-2 Persian cucumbers (or similar) (~100 grams)

• 6-7 cherry tomatoes or 1 large roma tomato, chopped (~150 grams)

Method

1. Dice and chop vegetables: Dice the yellow onion and mince the garlic. Set aside. Chop the green onion, mint, parsley, cucumber, and tomatoes. Set aside.

2. Cook the quinoa: Rinse quinoa thoroughly. Add to a pot with water and salt. Bring to a boil and then cover and turn heat down to low. Cook for 15 minutes. Then turn off heat and let the quinoa sit, with the cover still on the pot for 5-10 minutes. Then fluff the quinoa with a fork and transfer it to a bowl to cool. (You can put it in the fridge to speed this up.)

3. Cook the onions: In the meantime, add the olive oil to a medium-sized frying pan over medium heat. When hot, add diced yellow onion and saute for 3-5 minutes until translucent. Add garlic and saute for 30 seconds. Then add red pepper paste and tomato paste. Mix and cook for another 2-3 minutes until it turns a bit darker and smells fragrant. Add black pepper and cumin, mix and remove from heat.

4. Mix everything together: When quinoa is at room temperature, add the cooked onion mixture, pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, salt, and if using, the pepper flakes and sumac. Mix until well-distributed. Then add herbs, cucumbers and tomatoes. Mix gently to combine. Enjoy at room temperature or chilled!

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Notes

(1) Red pepper paste: Turkish red pepper paste is one of my favorite ingredients, but it can be a little challenging to find. If you can’t easily find it at a Turkish or Middle Eastern grocery store, don’t sweat it. You can add in 1/2 teaspoon sweet red pepper powder (or sweet paprika) instead.

(2) Spices and fresh add-ins: I know, I know. This is a LONG list! There are many different variations of kısır, and I like eating one that is doin’ the most. If some ingredient doesn’t sound great to you, or if you don’t want to buy all the herbs, then don’t. It will still be great! You can use lettuce in addition to or instead of parsley. Sometimes I leave out the fresh mint. I also try to have something in mind for the leftover herbs. I like to add them to green salads or make a chimichurri. You can also chop them, put them in ice cube trays and pour a bit of olive oil on top. Then freeze and use them in cooked dishes - soups, pan sauces, etc.